Arba Wine: A Taste of Kazakhstan Wine’s Renaissance
I was never a wine person... until I came to Italy. By chance, I began studying at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piemonte eight months ago. Wine had always seemed like a sophisticated drink that demanded expertise, but in Italy, it is simply a part of daily life—as familiar as names of nearby towns, meant to be enjoyed freely. This summer, I took the WSET Level 3 course and got to know a little bit more about wine. Now I find myself drawn to exploring local wines and wine bars wherever my travels take me.
Into the Unknown
“Does Kazakhstan produce wine?”This thought crossed my mind as I stumbled upon a winery in the heart of Almaty, Kazakhstan, during my summer travels through Central Asia.
The winery’s interior immediately set the tone: a cave-like ambiance greeted me, complete with a traditional horse-drawn carriage (“arba” in Kazakh) at the entrance. Inside, wines adorned large barrels, while velvet burgundy low sofas evoked a distinctly Central Asian or Soviet Union atmosphere. The walls showcased images of sun-drenched vineyards nestled at the foothills of mountains, alongside portraits of the producer.
Taste Taste Taste
I ordered a tasting set of six wines—three whites and three reds—for 5500 tenge (about 10 euros). The labels caught my eye, prominently featuring grape varieties and tribal totem characters, reflecting both New World wine marketing and Kazakhstan’s cultural heritage. The selection included familiar names like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, as well as Georgian varieties like Rkatsiteli and Saperavi from vintages between 2013 and 2018.
Upon tasting, a common thread emerged: these wines were aged yet surprisingly fresh and pure, holding their own against wines from renowned regions in France, Italy, and New World countries. Arba Wine’s portfolio showcases a diverse range of varieties, each telling its own story of Kazakhstan’s unique terroir. Ak Arba Riesling 2016 Reserve, the most memorable white for me, retained its characteristic crispness and clear note of petrol but without the steely or harsh aggression sometimes found in cooler climate regions. The winery’s red offerings were equally impressive. The Kyzyl Arba Cabernet Franc 2015 Reserve particularly caught my attention with its lively character, eschewing the heaviness sometimes associated with the variety in favour of a spicy, vibrant expression. Its richness and density made a strong impression, distinguishing it from similar cool region varieties.
What sets Arba's wines apart is their focus on traditional Georgian grape varieties. These grapes were widely propagated across the Soviet Union's member states, including Kazakhstan, during the era of industrialised wine production. Saperavi, a deep-coloured variety with warm notes of oak and velvety tannins, was probably the most widely planted red wine grape in the Soviet Union. Rkatsiteli, an ancient white grape known for its versatility, offers lively pear, quince, and honey tones.
A Story Written in Land and Time
Arba Wine’s vineyards are located in the Assa Valley, at a latitude similar to France’s Rhone Valley and an altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level. The significant diurnal temperature difference in the foothills allows the grapes to develop ripeness while maintaining the high acidity and fruit concentration, resulting in wines capable of long ageing without losing their vitality. But I could tell there is something more than the climate and geographic condition.
“The rebirth of Kazakh winemaking is a tale of resilience and rediscovery,” said Yerkebulan, the staff member from Arba Wine. While grape cultivation in the region dates back to the Silk Road, vineyards were destroyed and abandoned for decades due to the Soviet Union’s anti-alcohol crusade in the mid-1980s. The industry’s revival came about when an Italian specialist visited Kazakhstan and discovered that these long-neglected vines had not only survived but were thriving under the snow-capped peaks of the Tian Shan Mountains.
This discovery inspired Zeinulla Kakimzhanov, the founder of Arba Wine. Transitioning from a successful career in finance, Kakimzhanov embraced his passion for winemaking. He took over this dilapidated vineyard and started a project to restore the roots, branches, and the land, establishing Arba Wine in 2013. The name "Arba” referring to the traditional horse-drawn carriage, symbolises his mission: to transport wine culture into the heart of Kazakhstan and, in turn, introduce Kazakh wines to the world.
Most notably, the historical absence of phylloxera in the region allows vines to grow on their original ungrafted rootstock, contributing to greater fruit concentration and aromatic complexity in the wines. This explains the exquisite balance of vitality and richness in their wines.
The winemaking approach at Arba Wine blends experimentation with a commitment to expressing Kazakhstan’s unique terroir, free from strict appellation regulations found in Old World wine regions. They frequently work with small lot blends, sometimes combining more than 5 varieties to create complex flavor profiles. The use of acacia barrels gives a rounder feel while maintaining the wine’s original aromas and characteristic freshness.
Arba Wine faces unique challenges and opportunities in viticulture. Winter temperatures can drop below -35℃, and while snow cover helps protect the vine’s roots, some years remain challenging. They had no harvest the previous year due to adverse conditions.
With an annual production of around 200,000 bottles, Arba Wine focuses primarily on the domestic market, with some exports to Russia, Italy, and Japan. In the landscape of Kazakh wine, Arba positions itself as a premium, boutique producer among larger brands like Silk Alley and Turgen. While these competitors may have higher yields, they distinguish themselves through meticulous attention to detail and a commitment to quality over quantity. They actively participate in wine competitions to increase recognition, proudly showing me a bronze medal-winning Riesling vintage.
Most notably, the historical absence of phylloxera in the region allows vines to grow on their original ungrafted rootstock, contributing to greater fruit concentration and aromatic complexity in the wines. This explains the exquisite balance of vitality and richness in their wines.
The winemaking approach at Arba Wine blends experimentation with a commitment to expressing Kazakhstan’s unique terroir, free from strict appellation regulations found in Old World wine regions. They frequently work with small lot blends, sometimes combining more than 5 varieties to create complex flavor profiles. The use of acacia barrels gives a rounder feel while maintaining the wine’s original aromas and characteristic freshness.
Arba Wine faces unique challenges and opportunities in viticulture. Winter temperatures can drop below -35℃, and while snow cover helps protect the vine’s roots, some years remain challenging. They had no harvest the previous year due to adverse conditions.
With an annual production of around 200,000 bottles, Arba Wine focuses primarily on the domestic market, with some exports to Russia, Italy, and Japan. In the landscape of Kazakh wine, Arba positions itself as a premium, boutique producer among larger brands like Silk Alley and Turgen. While these competitors may have higher yields, they distinguish themselves through meticulous attention to detail and a commitment to quality over quantity. They actively participate in wine competitions to increase recognition, proudly showing me a bronze medal-winning Riesling vintage.